Coptic Cairo is a small area that consists of a group of churches clustered together in a tight area. Linked by small alleyways, these churches are located close to what used to be the location of the Nile River around 100 AD.
I took a morning to wander around these churches and alleyways. My first stop was the Hanging Church, built in the 7th century AD and so-called because it was built on top of a Roman gate, thus suspended in midair. A section of the floor is cut out and replaced with glass so that you can see down about ten or twenty feet. Inside the church there are relics of saints, and as I quietly made my way inside I noticed a few people walking around and praying to each of the relics. I hung around a little longer and realized that mass was about to start. I decided to stick around and caught most of the Mass. It consisted of mostly chanting, and the Coptic Mass is completely different than any other Christian service. It was quite an experience to be a part of.
I left the Hanging Church and continued to wind my way through the alleys, reaching other churches along the way. One notable church was the Church of St. Sergius, which was supposedly the location of a cave that Mary, Joseph, and Jesus slept when they were in hiding from King Herod. I entered the crypt, which is very small, but saw no remaining signs of Mary, Joseph, or Jesus, leading me ascertain that there is no conclusive evidence they stayed here.
The final notable church I checked out was the Church of St. George. Its distinctive round tops set it apart from other churches in the area. A Mass was being conducted as I walked by, and not wanting to disturb it, I hung around outside for a few minutes before continuing on my way.
I rounded out the morning by visiting the Coptic Museum, which contains artifacts from the Coptic period, including garments, staves, frescoes, icons, and sculptures from different Coptic sites. The object that most stood out to me in the museum were two pages from the Nag Hammadi Library. Having heard so much about this find, it was nice to see some pages of a codex in real life. It was a nice relaxing morning spent in a uncommonly quiet area of Cairo, away from the chaos of honking horns and the heat of the midday sun.
Was it a Catholic Mass you went to? or something different? Was it the same Mass we have here at St. Mary’s or different? I’ve heard that all Catholic Masses are the same no matter where you go. It’d be interesting to go to one to see if it’s familiar like St. Mary’s or completely different.
Coptic Christians are different from other Christian denominations. An extremely good book on the subject is Lost Christianities by Bart Ehrman. It is on my bookshelf if you wish to read it.